First of all...

...you should go to the Stella Speed site and join the conversation. Lots of pictures and good commentary. Bald John is moderating a thread on the Hot Wing here. You may have to signup to see the comments, but it’s worth it as Stella Speed is an invaluable resource for information on your Stella.

The conversation includes answers to questions about jetting and tuning. It’s always going to be more interactive than this page, but we’ll try and post the most important points that come out of those discussions on this page as well.

Installation Instructions

Look, we do not endorse or recommend installing your own exhaust unless you are an expert tuner because there are many factors that need to be considered when trying to increase your scoot’s performance. You should start with the Scoot! article excerpted here. If you are able to make these mods yourself, and you need the detailed instructions, they are available here: http://www.226vintage.com/pipe_installation.html. You have been warned. If you need to find a shop near you for install help, you can start here. All of the shops on this page have been vetted by us as being certified able to help you get the most from your 226 exhaust.

Vespa P125, P150 and Stella/LML 150/125

• MSRP is $459 - $499
• This pipe is a right-hander which means no need to move or lose your spare tire!
• The baffles can easily be repacked if needed
• It fits every Stella/LML or Vespa P series from 125cc to 180cc, even with a wide wheel kit
• Made of 18 gauge, cold-rolled steel
• Machined slip joints and spigot mounts are 4130 chromium steel
• Comes with durable ceramic, high temperature-resistant coating
• Finish choices are: satin black, chrome ex, or matte clear
• Guaranteed performance and fit with minimal modifications
• Clear written installation instructions
• Ultra quiet

Vespa P200

• MSRP is $459 - $499
• Pipe fits all stock motors and standard P200 kits, including:
  • Malossi 210 kit
  • Polini 213 kit
• This pipe is a right-hander
• The baffles can easily be repacked if needed
• Made of 18 gauge, cold-rolled steel
• Machined slip joints and spigot mounts are 4130 chromium steel
• Comes with durable ceramic, high temperature-resistant coating
• Finish choices are: satin black, chrome ex, or matte clear
• Guaranteed performance and fit with minimal modifications
• Clear written installation instructions
• Ultra quiet

H-Bomb 1

• MSRP is $459 - $499
• This pipe is a left-hander
• It should fit all P series scoots and any SS, Rally or GS 125 - 180cc as they have spare tire mounts in the left side cowl
• Spares can not be run with this pipe
• The Super, GL, and Sprint have gloveboxes in the left cowls, and can not run the H-Bomb without first cutting out the glovebox.
• Same brilliant 226 can design means the baffles can easily be repacked if needed
• Made of 18 gauge, cold-rolled steel
• Machined slip joints and spigot mounts are 4130 chromium steel
• Comes with durable ceramic, high temperature-resistant coating
• Finish choices are: satin black, chrome ex, or matte clear
• Guaranteed performance and fit with minimal modifications
• Clear written installation instructions

H-Bomb 2

• MSRP is $459 - $499
• This pipe is a left-hander
• It should fit all P series scoots and any SS, Rally or GS 200 and above, as they have spare tire mounts in the left side cowl
• Spares can not be run with this pipe
• The Super, GL, and Sprint have gloveboxes in the left cowls, and can not run the H-Bomb without first cutting out the glovebox.
• Same brilliant 226 can design means the baffles can easily be repacked if needed
• Made of 18 gauge, cold-rolled steel
• Machined slip joints and spigot mounts are 4130 chromium steel
• Comes with durable ceramic, high temperature-resistant coating
• Finish choices are: satin black, chrome ex, or matte clear
• Guaranteed performance and fit with minimal modifications
• Clear written installation instructions

Vespa T-5: R.I.P.

We officially released T-5 versions of our pipe. Code named the Haymaker and the Hook, these exhausts were sweet. Modeled on the H-Bomb and Hot Wing respectively, but with mods to the header to accommodate the T-5. Unfortunately, there were not enough orders to support the machining involved in producing them in quantity so these models have been discontinued. Sorry British dudes!

Lambretta

• LD left-hander with silentium style silencer is coming soon.
• Any style, any model. Custom made to order. Get in touch with us!

Chicken Wing. What is the Chicken Wing?

It all started in 1985…Tony Simoni worked at Protopipe’s Exhaust Systems which was the largest manufacturer of OEM and aftermarket two stroke exhaust systems in the USA. During this time Tony was able to learn from one of the best tuners/exhaust pipe designers and was also able to experiment with many pipe designs.

One design that worked very well fit on a Vespa P200 very peculiarly. The last section of the pipe wrapped around the battery and the silencer exited just below the left turn signal. The look of this pipe earned its name the “Chicken Wing”.

The pipe was made in small quantities (only 50 were ever made) and were sold to support Tony’s scooter racing habit in the ASRA in the early 1990s.

In 1999 Tony joined with Vespa Haus in Sacramento and further developed the exhaust, refining the concept into a efficient, repeatable design. This pipe provided very predictable-strong power which was critical when powering out of corners. When placed on a street-tuned Vespa P200 the pipe predictably raised the front wheel off the ground when powering through 2nd gear.

Tony never had a complaint from racers/street riders who bought the pipe regarding lack of power. This pipe design remained unchanged until recently when it was further developed by Tony and Paolo for better performance, hence the name “226 Hot Wing”.

General Interest

Q: Do you have any pictures of it installed on any bikes?

A: Check the Team 226 page for many examples of installed pipes.
Answered on: 03/31/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: How much will it cost to ship my 226 purchase?

A: We only charge exact shipping plus $2.50 for handling (basically, the box, padding and tape). If you want a general idea of what it will cost, you can go to ups.com and use their shipping calculator. Our pipes weigh 14 pounds packed in a 29 X 16 X 13 box for reference
Answered on: 04/01/2009 by Erik Noyes

Q: Why are the pipes two different prices?

A: There is a standard finish coat, Satin Black, that requires no additional work by us during manufacturing. This one sells for the lower price. Custom finishes take an average of two (2) additional to produce because they require additional stages of sanding and baking? Chrome EX takes the longest and the other custom colors require additional coats since they have less color, and thus less inherent durability, than black. All of this is in service of style and durability without skimping on either.
Answered on: 05/07/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: I see you are now offering black cans. How much for a FULL black setup?

A: Just add $20 to the pipe's stated price and that's the total cost. We now have a line item in our store for the add-on black can.
Answered on: 08/02/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Installation Help

Q: What's the deal with installing the pipe on a Rally 180?

A: This does not apply to Rally 200s. Rally 200s are good to go! Paolo here from 226 Vintage. So the deal with the Rally is as follows. You must purchase a spigot from Motorsport Scooters that increases the O.D. to that of the P200. They machine a nice part and it is affordable. After removing and installing the new spigot, the center stand must be altered slightly to fit the pipe. The stop on the throttle side of the center stand must be removed, and the stand spring shifted as far to the outside of the shift side of the bike as possible. The P200 and the LML both have various slots in the floorboard support rail that enables you to move the stand spring to different locations. I am not certain if the Rally has this or not, but if not, a hole can be drilled into the rail to accept the spring. These modifications will allow the hotwing to fit on the bike cleanly, and there should be no obstruction of cables ect. The mods are necessary only because the center stand on the Rally is narrower than that of the P200. If you have any other questions feel free to contact us.
Answered on: 04/14/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: What's the deal with installing the pipe on a Sprint?

A: The deal with the sprint 150 is as follows. The Sprint 150 utilizes the same size top shock buffer as the VBB, which measures approx 11/4 inches in height. If you ride 2 up on the Sprint, there is a chance the rear most portion of the tunnel i.e. where the license plate is affixed will hit the can. We are correcting the problem by putting a bit more English on the can i.e. angling the can away fro the tunnel. This problem can be further alleviated by replacing the top shock buffer with that from a P200 which gives another 3/4s of an inch in clearance. Over and out.
Answered on: 04/14/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: How about a workaround for a center stand issue?

A: From our rider James Cerantonio in Australia: "I resolved this problem by modifying the stand and moving the brackets back 1 inch to clear the pipe. This was done by grinding off the spring tab (the retractor arm the spring attached too) and the right hand side stand stop. I then moving the assembly back one inch by modifying the stand bracket (moved the front hole to the back and secured the back hole - if that make sense) and then attaching the spring to the left hand side stop to retract the stand properly. Now the tabs/stops and brackets don't foul the pipe. " Pictures available upon request.
Answered on: 02/23/2010 by Paolo Cividino

Q: What's the deal with installing the pipe on a GS?

A: We have an exclusive deal with Motorsport. Please visit their website and order one of our GS exhausts from them.
Answered on: 12/13/2010 by Erik Noyes

Product Information

Q: Will this pipe be faster than my Sito+ on my stock PX200 motor?

A: The Hot Wing will provide a significant increase in mid range and top end torque and power. If you look at the 150 dyno graph on our site, you'll see a stock barrel with Sito and Hot Wing as well as others. The Sito does well down low due to the restriction, but provides little power and isn't that fun to ride. The Hotwing comes on smooth just like the graph shows, but unlike all the other pipes, it has excellent top end characteristics. Long answer for a short question: your bike will be faster and much quicker.
Answered on: 03/31/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: Will it be as loud or louder than my Sito+?

A: Down low it is. It sounds like an expansion chamber, but is much quieter than the JL, PM Tuning, Prima, or SIP. Once you get above 4000 rpm, the pipe quiets down and is very subtle.
Answered on: 03/31/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: Will it be as reliable (if jetted properly) on my stock motor as my Sito+?

A: I would like to think the Hot Wing, if mounted correctly and you keep curb hopping to a minimum, would be a long term pipe, every bit as reliable as your Sito plus...We stand behind it 100%.
Answered on: 03/31/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: What's the word on jetting?

A: In general, you will likely need to increase your jetting if you are moving from a stock pipe to a 226 pipe. The jetting adjustment, and the timing adjustment for that matter, will vary from scoot to scoot, region to region. Altitude has much to do with the jetting and there are enough mechanical factors that influence the timing adjustment that, if you are not a seasoned tuner, you will likely benefit from seeking the assistance of a professional. Otherwise, the trial and error has and will continue to produce both great and disastrous results in equal measure!
Answered on: 06/26/2009 by Erik Noyes

Q: What if I have a pre-P scoot?

A: As of 7/7/2009, we are now making a special version of the Hot Wing for you vintage owners that includes a pipe that is articulated slightly downward to provide clearance when riding two up. Dubbed the Hot Wing V, this is the deal:

Any pre P series bike requires this model. The can rides lower to avoid hitting cowl.

The right side Rally center stand stop will hit the pipe, and needs to be removed for the stand to clear the pipe. This does not compromise the integrity of the stand. This may also be necessary on the Sprint but we're not sure. Let us know.
Answered on: 07/07/2009 by Erik Noyes

Q: Jetting difference between the Hot Wing and the H-Bomb?

A: Air fuel on the dyno at sea level. Hotwing 128/130. H-Bomb 138/140. The H-Bomb is a BEAST!
Answered on: 07/10/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: I have a stock P200E 1980 that was produced in 12/79 so it has the 24mm carb. I will use this scooter for getting groceries and going on the occasional rally with my bros, and will not be racing it or abusing it. Will this semi stock set up with the appappropriate timing and jetting create too much heat for touring/rallys? My concern is the heat and I am leaning towards longevity. Maybe I do not need ALL the power of the H bomb and can get away fine with the Hot Wing.

A: So our thoughts are as follows: I don't think heat is the issue for you concerning which pipe to ride. Yes heat is power, and yes because the H-Bomb produces more power higher in the rev range and far more in the over revs, it produces more heat than the Hot Wing. That being said, they both produce heat as they both produce massive power. A well tuned bike (i.e. correct jetting, timing) and well assembled motor (i.e. no air leaks, etc.) will ensure longevity in the bike.

What I see as the issue is your riding style and habits. It sounds to me like the Hot Wing might be a better exhaust for you because of the type of riding you do. It is a torquier pipe with still tremendous output on top............It excels in town - light to light - even 2 up. Also ceramic coating the inside of the exhaust, our RaceReady option, not only allows for more efficient exhaust flow, it also keeps the outside of the exhaust cooler thus reducing heat damage to cable housings etc.
Answered on: 08/24/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: could you explain the difference between the Hot Wing and H Bomb as far as the performance and general differences for my 2005 PX150? I have 1200 miles on the scooter. What jetting do you recommend for my PX150 with these pipes I am at sea level.

A: Well the most obvious difference between the H-Bomb and the Hot Wing is that the H-Bomb is a left hand exit which does not allow you to run a spare.The Hot Wing exits on the right and keeping the spare is no problem. From a performance standpoint, the Hot Wing has more torque than the H-Bomb, but the H-Bomb produces more power at the top end, and produces far more power in the over rev. Basically, both perform phenomonally well, but if you do a lot of "light to light" in town riding, the Hot Wing might be a better fit. If you ride wide open a lot the H-Bomb might be a bit more fun. The power comes on very smooth on both pipes, and I love the way they both ride. As for jetting, there are too many factors involved to nail it down for you. I would suggest talking to your local tuned, or going to stellaspeed and siffting through the threads on both pipes for jetting info.
Answered on: 08/12/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: Hey, what set up was the hot wing designed around as far as the p125 series? I've been thinking about getting my malossi kit on, but may do a stroker crank too... any input for me? lightening flywheel, porting, timing, etc...? Thanks again! rock on!

A: So for the Hot Wing on a 125/150, here is how it was tested and then dyno'd. Obviously bone stock, then a Polini top end, and a Malossi top end as well. As for the Malossi, we tested it with a straight bolt on approach - perhaps something an inexperianced rider would do to get a mild increase - and then we did a ported version. If you are a tuner or are bringing it to a tuner, that would be the way you would want to go.
Are you riding a Stella, or P series? If a Stella, get a set of reeds from Bald John. A really good improvement over stock, and a better choice than Boysen.

As for porting on the top end, definitely match the cases to the barrel. Get a good radius shape on the transfers on the case. Don't make them angular. You should be able to enlarge the transfers on the barrel, but be very, very, very careful about not altering the roof of the transfers as an incorrect angle - even by a degree - will jack things up real bad. Raise the exhaust 1 to 1.5mm and widen 2.5mm a side. Maintain a nice oval shape. It's safe. Match the top of the transfers and raise 1mm. This should bring your port timing to 125/126. Widen transfer outlets up to 2mm - watch the ring gland and make sure you don't interfere with ring pin location - Check squish on head .8 mm is the best. I would also o-ring the head if possible. If you get that far successfully, you are a stud.
Answered on: 08/28/2009 by Paolo Cividino

Q: Rally versus P install?

A: Since the Rally 200 and P200 have the same spigot so there are no fitment issues for your Rally 200. If you have a Rally 180, we will need to know that because the spigot is different but this is not an insurmountable issue that would prevent you from installing one of our exhausts. We've already fitted up a bunch of Rally 180s and just need to know ahead of time that you are planning to install on this model. You will likely need a new spigot if it's not a Rally 200.
Answered on: 12/13/2010 by Paolo Cividino

contact us at:

• email: info@226vintage.com
• snail mail: 226 Vintage | 616 E4th Street | Reno | Nevada | 89512